Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark

View of 172nd street Phnom Penh

Hometown Hotel Phnom PenhWe stared outside the Hometown Suite Hotel window through a curtain of rain at the street below.

After the calm and tranquility of Battambang, our first visit to the Cambodia’s capital was starting off with trepidation. So we decided we needed to boost our energy reserves and opted for an afternoon Sunday nap instead of rushing out to explore.

By the time we woke up, the street was a hive of activity even though the electricity had gone off, and many of the restaurants were operating by candle light.

Even though we were in a budget hotel, they had a generator, so we felt safe and sound in our brightly lit abode that shone like a beacon into the darkness. We hadn’t eaten anything except snacks all day and were both in need of a big plate of food.

The challenge of arriving in any new town is trying to discover the best places to eat and at the same time, avoid being ripped off, because we were new tourists in a very strange town. So we did what every unadventurous tourist does, we ate in the hotel.

They had a limited menu because the kitchen was on generator power, and the pasta we ordered was as bland as the hotel lobby – but it filled a corner.

Hometown Hotel Phnom Penh

By the time we’d finished our meal, the rain had stopped, and I convinced Red to explore the local area. He’s a glass half-empty kind of guy, and in situations like his worries overshadow my enthusiasm – but my glass half-full approach to life was bubbling over with inquisitiveness and excitement, and there was no way I was spending our first night in a new city, watching Cambodian TV.

Many of the big buildings along the street had generator power, but all of the smaller restaurants were candle lit. And these cast an eerie glow into the darkness, adding the potential of lurking evil to half-empty’s perspective. We wandered past the boisterous bars clustered at the end of 172nd Street before turning right onto Preah Ang Yukanthor (19th Street).

View of 172nd street Phnom Penh
View of 172nd street Phnom Penh on another night

After hurrying past the Happy House and the Good Times bar, we opted instead for the safer confines of the Navi Bar. The bartender, Cambodians propping up the bar, and DJ were all small women, and the largest thing in the room was a green baize pool table. The dance tunes were loud, but good. So we ordered a couple of $1 beers and stood at the side of the room resting against a narrow shelf, with all eyes on us.

Sweat was dripping from both of us, the humidity hadn’t diminished despite the rain, and in this musty bar, I could feel the sweat running down my back like a mighty river, then splitting into two smaller rivers as it cascaded over my bum, and ran down each leg before pooling at my feet.

Red and I had a game of pool and I fumbled my way through it as the pool cue kept slipping out of my hands. From the corner of my eye I keep seeing steady stream of men momentarily coming into the bar, and wandering out with one of the female bar patrons. As we wrapped up our game, the ceiling fans had been turned on, so I rushed at the chance of having my travel cobwebs blown away.

Navi Bar Phnom PenhIt wasn’t long before a pint-sized patron in a tight mini dress, with teetering heels, challenged Red to a game of pool. It was entertaining to watch this tiny coquettish imp trying to flirt and beat Red at his own game, her diversion tactics we turned up high, but whereas with me Red was just getting his game warmed up, with her, his game face was on.

She hadn’t expected his competitive streak, and this was a game he wasn’t going to lose. His piece de resistance – shooting the cue ball down the table, and knocking two balls into opposite corner pockets at the same time.

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We stayed for another beer and then wandered back along 172nd Street, peering into the Black Pearl bar and the Dirty Old Sailor bar, and neighboring restaurants, hurrying past the bevies of young sexy girls, and averting our gaze from the Europeans drooling over them. I think Red was worried that he’d be eaten alive if I took my eyes off him for one minute, so he stayed close.

As we got closer to our hotel, the bars gave way to low key local restaurants, happy pizza joints, travel agents, and laundry services.

Buildings in Phnom Penh
Laundry Service on 172nd Street

It wasn’t the most salubrious of areas to be staying in, but I felt safe wandering around in the middle of the night.

Our travel day, and the humidity, was beginning to catch up with us, so we headed back to the hotel. Of all the rooms we’d stayed in, this was by far the biggest room and bed, and had the bonus of a little fridge, so Red ran over the road to a little convenience store to buy some beers and water, and he settled down to watch English language channels, and I logged onto the Wi-Fi to plan the next day’s activities.

Hometown Hotel Phnom Penh
Our Hometown Hotel comfy bed

About 172nd Street Phnom Pehn

Although 172nd street does have some of the typical Asian girly bars, there’s no chance of you walking in one by mistake. These tend to have darker interiors and the neon signs give the intent away. (If this aspect of 172nd Street freaks you out a bit, definitely don’t got to 136 Street, which is wall-to-wall girly bars. We turned down it by mistake one night, immediately felt uneasy, and turned on our heels and hurried away).

Unlike most other major Asian cities, guidebooks indicated there is really no backpacker heart to Phnom Penh, but having stayed on 172nd street, I think this comes close. It’s central to all the sightseeing and tourist destinations you would want to explore. The Royal Palace is within easy walking distance, and the Central Market is a couple of dollars in a tuk-tuk.

172nd Street is probably one of the cheapest tourist streets in the city. There’s wall to wall restaurants and bars with cheap beer, and cheap food, and the service is laid back with no hassles. Within a stones throw of our hotel are a large choice of hostels with rooms around the $5 range. We pushed the boat out and paid $14 a night for the Hometown Suites, and although it was a budget hotel, it was at the higher end of budget, but clean, and safe. The staff were friendly and helpful, and there was so much available on the doorstep it was a convenient base. If you want to go a little bit more upmarket ($23) I’ve read favorable reports about the Sun Dance Inn and Saloon.

Additional Resources


Flashpacking through Cambodia ebook cover for Baby Boomers on a Budget
Flashpacking through Cambodia

Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.

I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.

If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.

Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:

 


 

Author: Roving Jay

Jay is a project manager who swapped corporate life for a nomadic existence as a travel writer. She works with authors and entrepreneurs to help them achieve their self-publishing goals and reach their target audience through content marketing. Jay has published a series of travel guides, a travel memoir, and nonfiction books about travel writing. She housesits and volunteers around the globe with her husband, a Hollywood set painter, and she’s never more that 10 paces away from a wi-fi connection.

20 thoughts on “Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark

  1. Never been to this area, but what en experience to explore an area when the power goes out at night with such heat! I can only imagine as I am from Miami and am used to the humidity, but being new to a place must have been quite interesting!

    1. That humidity takes some getting used to, and it was something we had to deal with for most of our trip. It doesn’t take long to get used to a rivet of perspiration constantly running between your shoulder blades!

  2. Okay, I think I would be a bit frantic if lights went out on me in a strange place. I am a solo traveller and there is no way I would have been able to wonder around in the dark by myself. Like you, I would have eaten at the hotel (which I don’t usually like to do). It still sounds like your day ended up being okay.

    1. On the first night I was a little anxious, but there was no way I was staying in. But once we’d been out and walked around, we realized how safe it felt. There was so much life and activity around—it provided us with a level of confidence about exploring in the dark.

  3. Never been to Cambodia or South Asia for that matter. Is English widely spoken? Can you easily go around without knowing the official language? (I have only travelled to English, French and Spanish spoken countries, so I am always terrified at the idea of getting lost somewhere I don’t speak the language!)
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    1. English is spoken, not always widely, only in the bigger cities and towns, or the areas that are hubs for tourist. We got lost a few times, but you just have to roll with it. I like it that there’s a level of uncertainty about travel, and if I get lost it’s up to me to try and figure it out and get un-lost! I like the sense of achievement it gives you.

  4. You took me right to Cambodia with your beautiful writing.I could picture every word you wrote. Growing up in a developing country, I wouldn’t blink an eye if the power went out and I’ll do exactly what you did.
    I wanted to know more about what else happen on 172nd street. Like the juicy story…

    1. Thanks Bolupe. It’s amazing the things we take for granted in our day-to-day lives, and I think travel really helps to bring us back down to other people’s reality.

  5. I would have the same reaction as you – more inquisitive and interested than skeptical. Sounds like a really neat place to explore!

  6. Cambodia is definitely on my bucket list! Thank you so much for sharing, this looks like such an adventure!

  7. I really enjoyed taking this little journey with you through this charming and historic place! I’m a sailor, so I would really love to pop into the Dirty Old Sailor Bar and check it out! Haha! Thanks so much for this great insight into what seems like an awesome place to visit!

  8. Phnom Pehn is at the top of my bucket list. I was planning a Cambodia trip for the Fall but who knows now? You have some great tips here, thanks for the ideas on where to stay and hang out!

    1. We enjoyed our few days here, but had to stay longer than we wanted because we renewed our visa, and it took longer than planned, so by the time we left, we were more than ready.

  9. This must have been quite the experience! I think it would be pretty cool to see all the restaurants open with just candle light. I always find that some of the best times are the unexpected and somewhat disastrous. I’m sure having the power go out in a new place on the first night would cause a little anxiety, but it seems like it turned out okay.

    1. Yes we had first night nerves. It’s difficult to assess a place you’ve just arrived at, you really don’t know what you’re walking in too. But it turned out ok, and I’m glad we made the effort to go out and explore.

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