Feature Image: The Alhambra gardeners having a chat
Arriving in Granada
Granada was our final city in our four-city tour of Spain, and because I’d been here before (albeit over three decades ago) I had an inkling of what to expect. The key memory from that prior visit was a tour around the Alhambra, and no trip to Granada is complete without a meandering visit around this Moorish monument. But I also wanted to wander the streets and explore the old town’s cobbled streets and pokey little tapas bars. We arrived by train from Seville, and took a local city bus from the small Granada train station, which is located a bit out of town, to the central area near the Cathedral. From there we walked to our accommodation.
Staying in Old Town Granada
I switched and swapped accommodation a couple of times before we arrive in Granada. I didn’t know whether to stay on the flat landscape around the Cathedral in the heart of the tourist area, or venture into the hilly area within the shadow of the Alhambra in El Albaicin which is Granada’s oldest neighbourhood.
I booked both in plenty of time with the intention of cancelling one of them when I could make my mind up, but then decided to invite my brother and his wife to join us for a couple of nights as a treat for his 60th. They’d relocated to Southern Spain a few years ago, so it was an easy drive to Granada. I ended up locating them in the Cathedral apartment while we headed for the hills—and we all loved our locations.
Our’s was a compact little place, and you can’t really see in the photo above, but behind the TV is a small, deep plunge pool. The couch was an amazing spot to gaze survey this historic quarter of Granada (that’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site), and across to the opposite hill where the Mirador de San Nicolás is the most prominent building.
The building are so tightly packed together, and you could watch the comings and goings of daily life happening on the balconies and gardens, and at night it was like Christmas tree lights being turned on, one branch at a time. It was magical to sit an watch the city go dark and the lights come on, and if we visit again we’d definitely choose this neighbourhood.
The only downside is that we had to navigate a hilly maze to find our accommodation, and there were no restaurants, bars, or shops in the immediate vicinity. It was a steep climb from our front door to the main street and at night the last ten yards was down a narrow, urine-soaked alleyway.
But once into the fragrant open we were greeted by the Pension Landázuri café—a simple culinary oasis.
It’s a popular breakfast spot, and the service, price, and food was so good that we started each day there. I’m a bit of a coffee-snob, and this café’s coffee was delicious. So good infact, that one morning I walked the hilly gauntlet as soon as I got up to get two take-away coffees to take back to bed. It’s located on one of the steep streets that lead up to the Alhambra, so although you don’t see many people walking up to this historic site, you do see a steady stream of people walking down.
Other resources:
- Tips from the Broke Backpacker on the area’s to stay in Granada
- Spanish Sabores – Where to Stay in Granada
Our Favorite Places to Eat
I’d read that of all the Spanish cities, Granada is the main city you’re going to pay tourist prices for tapas and you’re highly unlikely to be offered complimentary tapas like we were offered in Madrid. We did manage to find a few places offering free tapas, but they were the exception rather that the rule. We booked our accommodation independently and were greeted by a teenage boy who helped me carry my bag up the hill (Red had to drag his own), and help us navigate the maze of back streets and cobbled lanes to find where we were staying for our 3-day visit. We asked him for the best places for tapas, and he gave us his top three, and here’s his list:
On our first night we went to the nearest Las Diamantes restaurant. There’s a few in the city and we were a little suspect about going to a chain, but it was a winner.
Up until this point in our trip we’d gravitated towards small, dark, and local tapas joints that oozed Spanish charm. The Plaza Nuevo location of Bar Los Diamantes was the complete opposite, and oozed California strip-mall starkness and brightness. It was packed when we got there but their slick and organized servers whisked us to the first available spot on a family-style table. We were surrounded by locals and tourist, and the sound level was as dramatic as the food.
We probably wouldn’t have ventured through Los Diamantes doors if we hadn’t have got the recommendation from a local, because it’s situated on the busy Plaza Nuevo, but each time we visited (yes we went back more than once because it was that good!) we sat next to local and visiting Spanish families that helped to explain the menu and made recommendations of their favorite dishes.
We worked our way through the tapas/appetizer section of the menu during our visits, and every dish we ordered was delicious.
We did explore many more tapas restaurants and bars in Granada. One was dire. The tapestry ladened decor was amazing (ornate cushions on the floor) and we thought we were going to enjoy an authentic middle eastern meal, but no sooner had we sat down when I spied a bank of nine microwaves in the kitchen and each order placed was swiftly followed my the gentle ping of a microwave ready-meal. They tried to overcharge us for the hummus we ordered, and were extremely pushy about us taking up table space and not ordering more, even though the vast restaurant was only about 10% occupied. Rule of Thumb – if a restaurant is empty, it’s empty for a reason!
We ate at some fabulous little tapas bars and restaurants around the Cathedral area, but as we were with my brother and his wife, we were more focused on chatting and drinking than photographing where we’d been or remembering the names. So my recommendation is to seek out locals and ask them for their recommendations. It worked for us.
Getting Around Granada
Be warned. It’s hilly. This seemed more dramatic that it probably was, but we’d just traveled from the easy to navigate, flat landscape of Seville. We did get a bit out of breath with the long steep climbs and stairs, and although we could have opted to take the bus or a taxi to our destinations, we just love exploring new cities on foot.
There’s a frequent and easy to understand bus system in Granada, but with the narrow streets in the old town it’s often quicker to walk than take the bus. We took the bus up to The Alhambra, but walked down.
When we visited Mirador de San Nicolas the first time we walked up and down, but the second time we took my brother and we took the bus up and walked down.
The rest of our visit we just wandered around aimlessly, and got where we needed to go on foot. It’s quite an easily city to lose your way in, so we relied on our Google Maps app a lot to find out how to get un-lost.
Other resources:
The Alhambra
We booked a one-day ticket, but in hindsight we should have visited this stunning Moorish site at least twice. It’s spread across a vast area and so there’s lots of walking involved, and even in May when we visited, it was too hot to be in the sun all day.
The architecture was amazing, but I think we only saw a fraction of it. But what really grabbed my attention was the expertly manicured gardens.
The roses were in full bloom and the aroma of their fragrance made a walk through the gardens a full sensory experience.
The views from the Alhambra were spectacular, and it just love the perspective this vantage point puts on the city. You really get a sense of this imposing fortress when you’re wandering around it.
Alhambra Ticket Tips
There are multiple websites to purchase Alhambra tickets, but here’s a link to the official website. As soon as you know your travel dates, book your tickets (up to four months in advance). You will only be able to access the Nasrid Palaces in the time indicated on your ticket. If you don’t enter at the designated time you’ll lose your spot. We didn’t book far enough in advance to secure a spot for the Nasrid Palaces, so we purchased a general admission ticket that excluded area of The Alhambra. But next time I’m going to be more organized and book a timed slot to visit the palaces.
Mirador de San Nicolas
We had a direct view across Granda’s old town across to Mirador de San Nicolas, and we had two trips up there during our three day stay. From that vantage point you get an impressive view of the city and The Alhambra, and we even managed to spot our apartment.
The church is next door to a Mosque, and I’d recommend taking in the view from both of these places of worship.
Basilica Inmaculada San Juan De Dios
One our exploration to discover one of the other tapas places on our recommended list (El rincón de los sabers) we wandered past this Basilica and as we hadn’t toured any buildings besides the Alhambra, we decided to go inside. It’s a small unassuming place of worship from the outside with a pretty courtyard.
But on the inside only one word will do—Impressive.
Or maybe—opulent.
Or if you want two words—gold overload.
There weren’t many other tourists exploring the church, so we had it more or less to ourselves. It was such a feast for the senses, but extremely OTT. After all that glam and glitter, we were happy to settle into the relaxed and low-key Rincon tapas bar to bring us back to earth.
The end of Red’s birthday trip
It took me months to book our four city tour of Spain, and the two weeks from Barcelona to Madrid, Seville and Granada was over in a flash. Each city had it’s own ambiance, and we loved the moorish influences of Granada. For a first time trip, three days is more than enough to get a flavor of this city and to see whether you love it enough to return. It has one foot in it’s past, and if you love Moorish and Islamic influences, Granada delivers it to you.
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My late best friend who passed away last summer always said that if he ever were to move from Sweden, he would move to Granada. Cuz they have snow just like us 🙂 Reading your post brought back some great memories, so thank you!
Sorry to hear about your friend Ann … but glad that my post triggered some happy memories for you.
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I love this trip around Granada and Alhambra, it really made me feel as if I was there with you. I am due for a Spain visit, so this is perfect!
You’ll have a fab time Larch — our trip was for two weeks, but I could quite easily have stayed longer to explore more of Spain.
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I visited Granada the second time last summer, and even without going to Alhambra, this city mesmerized me again. I loved the narrow streets and the street musicians on the squares in the old town.
Your brother and his wife must have enjoyed spending time together, what a thoughtful gift from you!
Hi Anna … no matter what city we visit I always gravitate to the old town areas with the narrow streets and little squares. There’s something more intimate with that than wandering down wide grand avenues.
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Granada is a place I really want to visit. The Alhambra looks so beautiful. How would you say it compares to the Alcazar in Seville which I have visited? Bigger? Better?
Hi Angela … I’m really not sure as we didn’t go to the Alcazar in Seville – but I’m guessing the Alhambra is bigger and better – because it’s an incredibly popular site to visit.
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Haven’t been to Granada yet and your post gave me more incentive to go. Thanks for the tickets on the Alhambra tickets.
Thanks Sue.
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We were in Madrid in October and have been to Barcelona previously. The more I visit Spain, the more I want to see of this country. I really enjoyed this piece and your photos–you’ve definitely made me add Granada to my “future Spain cities to visit.”
Yes I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to explore more of Spain. It’s a fabulous country.
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Lovely pictures and a great travel guide. The moorish architecture is amazing. I love your apartment also. Wat a view.
Thanks Sinjana.
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What a lovely place to visit. I think we are next on a fitness campaign we will head to Granada for a few weeks as it looks like a good place to explore on foot. 🙂
It’s a challenging city to navigate as there are lots of hills, but the main part of Granada is on the flat. But the hills are worth climbing just for the views.
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It’s been years since I visited Granada. We’ve been talking about planning a road trip around Andalusia for ages, this post has finally inspired my BF we should go. That view from your apartment- wow!
Thanks Sarah … yes we were really lucky with all of our accommodation choices in each of the Spanish cities we stayed in.
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Granada is on my bucket list. I enjoyed seeing it through your pictures. Great accommodation with great views! Good info on the tickets.
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Yes … advance booking is necessary all year round if you want to see it all.
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Wow! What a beautiful city. I love the idea of eating at family-style tables and getting tips and recommendations from the locals. Thanks for sharing all your insights about visiting.
Thanks Nancy … as an introvert, I didn’t used to be a fan of family-style tables, but now I love the sense of adventure that you don’t know who you’re going to be sitting next to and meet.
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I absolutely loved this post! I lived in Granada for about 6 months in my 20’s and this brought back so many memories. The free tapas were hard to come by, you had to know where to go. If I ever get back there I’m going to check out some of your suggestions!
Thanks Catherine .. I bet after 6 months you really got to know the city well.
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I missed Granada due to lack of time during my Spain holidays and now I regret it as it looks perfect place for me. The architecture looks superb. Your Living Room in the El Albaicin area of Granada looks a perfect place to stay here. Even the views of Alhambra is very magnificent.
There’s just so many great cities to visit in Spain – and each one we visited has it’s own personality. I have Cadiz on my list for my next trip.
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Spain offers many wonderful and historic cities to visit. Having visited a number of amazingly beautiful and historic cities whilst walking the Camino de Santaigo; you blog has provided inspiration to make another visit to Spain and experience the sights of Granada. Thank you 🙂
Well done you for walking the Camino de Santiago … I don’t think I have the staying power for that walk, but it looks like a memorable adventure. There’s certainly enough books and memoirs about it.
I’ve never been to Grenada before, your pictures are absolutely stunning! I’m adding the gardens in Alhambra to my itinerary for when i make it there. Great post! Thanks for sharing.
… and we only saw a portion of the Alhambra, and missed some of the best bits, so will have to go back one day.
I’m very much interested to visit Alhambra after reading your post. The beautiful places like the Mirador De San Nicolas and the basilica of San Juan De Dios makes me more curious to reach Spain . Your description of your visit and favorite places to visit and favorite places to dine makes it more easier . Thanks for the great information of Alhambra which gives me a good heads up for my trip.
Also thanks for the natural and beautiful clicks which helps to know and love the place a little more.
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There’s certainly enough historical buildings and meandering streets to keep you engaged and wanting to explore more.
It looks like a lovely place to visit – and spend some time in; I haven’t been anywhere in Spain yet, but Granada is going to be one of the places I visit when I finally make it. Thanks for a great post.
So many places to visit and too little time! It has taken us years to explore more of Spain, but we weren’t disappointed.
Love the look of Granada & have never been there. The Alhambra looks amazing but I particularly enjoyed your exploration of the local tapas restaurants. I always ask the locals for recommendations & they never fail to deliver.
I always used to search Tripadvisor for recommendations, but more and more these days I’m relying blog and local recommendations about the best neighbourhood places to eat.
This was really inspiring! I’m not attracted to countries in southern Europe because they look like home… however Granada is a town I would really love to explore, and I will look for an airbnb right in the area you recommended!
Granada has such a heavy moorish influence it’s almost out of place in Spain, but that’s why I love it. The mix of cultures gives it an edge and makes it a unique Spanish city.
Granada and in fact Spain is one of my top places to visit in 2020/2021. There is so much culture and history here – that cathedral looks beautiful. And eating tapas in local places is the best way to enjoy Spain, no?
It’s Spanish, but distinctly different because of the moorish influence.
Another part of the world I am yet to visit! I am much inspired by Alhambra and the intricate architecture of the Basilica San Juan. How beautiful is it! I look forward to travelling to Grenada one day. Have saved your post.
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The Alhambra was a delight. Definitely worth visiting a couple of times during your stay there, in order to do it justice.
A very well written blog post! I felt as if I am traveling with you to Granada and Alhambra. I find that almost all cities in Southern Spain are built on slopes and there are steep stairs to climb up or down while exploring the city. In spite of possible crowds of tourists, Alhambra is definitely worth visiting at least once in your life! 🙂
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I got a chance t spend a month in Andalucia and I dream about it a lot. I loved the history too — and how the Moors still have a lasting impression on the architecture and food hundreds of years after Ferdinand and Isabella kicked them out. And yes you can definitely work your calf muscles walking up and down those narrow roads and hills. I can’t wait to go again and experience it from a homestay instead of a hotel and without my kids. The food and the wine have left permanent memories on my taste buds. On a side note– I can get lost on your blog, thank you for the chance to travel from my sofa.
Here’s to getting lost more often! Glad you’re enjoying the travels from the safety of your sofa.