Arriving in Seville
After our rain-drenched days in Madrid, it was a relief to receive a warm and sunny welcome in Seville. I’d mapped out the bus route and walk it was going to take us to get from Sevilla Santa Justa Station to our old town AirBnB, but it was so hot when we arrived that we just hopped in a taxi instead.
Staying in Old Town Seville
It’s always a gamble to set high expectations based on a few online photographs and visitor reviews, but I was quietly confident that our little penthouse apartment was going to thrill us—and it didn’t disappoint.
Yes Casa San Lorenzo was compact, but it had everything we needed, and there were so many windows overlooking the cobblestone street that it was flooded with light. There was a small galley kitchen between the the living room and the bedroom, and the whole place was open plan (except for the bathroom of course!)
Although cars were allowed down the narrow streets near our apartment, we crossed paths more pedestrians and people walking their dogs.
We wondered if this dapper gent was a former bull fighter.
And we instantly fell in love with this well-behaved dreaded dog tied up outside of a corner shop. I wish we’d lingered around to find out if the owner looked like their dog—but we had places to be.
Our Favorite Tapas Bars
Our apartment was only a short stroll to some fabulous little squares, littered with tables and chairs from the cafes and restaurants that surrounded it.
These neighbourhood squares were by far the best discovery in Seville, and we discarded the map and GPS location finder and spent a lot of time just wandering the old town to see what little squares we stumbled across.
We discovered Café Hércules on the first afternoon, shortly after arriving, and we returned there a couple of times during our trip. It’s located just off Alameda de Hércules (also known as La Alameda), which is a long garden square with a vast array of bars, tapas bars, cafes, restaurants and a few shops.
La Alameda was originally a promenaded public garden and nowadays attracts a mix of locals and tourist, and is a relaxed place to wander around and people watch.
Some days we went in search of tapas bars in he shade because it was too hot to sit outside in the blazing sun, and it was just too nice to sit inside.
Getting Around Seville
We spent most of our time exploring the city on foot, and that’s the best way to make sure you discover out-of-the-way tapas bars that aren’t rammed with tourists. When we had a choice of walking down a main road or a side-street, the side street won every time, and we discovered some fabulous little hole in the wall dives full of friendly locals who were more than happy to give us local recommendations for where to eat and drink.
We spent an afternoon cycling around the city on our Bunny Bikes, and it’s a really easy and flat city to explore. There’s a comprehensive cycle lane system adjacent to the pavements, but so many of the tourists didn’t realize they were bike lanes and we had a few close shaves with people just walking out in front of us without looking. So just have your wits about you when you rent a bike and use the cycle lanes (and if you’re on foot—watch where you’re walking).
There are plenty of different bike rental companies in central Seville—and the pricing was more or less the same across the board. We rented off Bunny Bikes purely because of the name. Too cute to ignore. We also saw a lot of organized bike tours taking place around the city, so if that’s your thing, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
On the way to the bike shop we wondered why there was a pair of scissors sticking out from an ornate historical building, so we followed the thread to see where it led. At the other end was this grumpy looking gent hard at work on his spinning wheel.
Not something you expect to see in the middle of the day in a the city centre, but representative of Seville’s quirky charm.
It would have been quite easy to stay within the confines of the narrow cobblestone lanes of the old city. It was seductively calm and easy to navigate (although we got lost numerous times—but isn’t that part of the charm of exploring a new city?)
But Seville has more to offer that this diverse old town, so we ventured further afield to explore the more touristy neighbourhoods. The ornate buildings and vibrant colours are the defining element of Seville’s personality, and if you want to visit a city that feels very Spanish—this is it.
Seville’s Cathedral Area
On Saturday we wandered around the grand plazas and wide avenues around the Seville Cathedral and Alcázar Palace. Stylish locals rubbed shoulders with a global mix or tourists and there was a definite air of people enjoying life to it’s full.
As well as watching out for cyclists, you have to keep your eyes peeled for the trams that seem to appear out of nowhere, and the horse-drawn carriages.
This feels like the tourist-centre of the city, and although we’re glad we walked through here to see it first hand, we didn’t want to linger here too long. Instead, we walked over a couple of avenues to Parque de Maria Luisa.
Plaza de España
Whether you’re on foot or cycling, this pubic park is a great way to while away a few hours, and it’s expansive enough to never feel crowded. At the edge of the park is a large half-circle building called Plaza de España.
This stunning landmark of sweeping architecture features ceramic tiled alcoves depicting Spain’s major cities. The one below is of Toledo, Spain’s historical capital, that was replaced by Madrid.
In the shade of the colonnade we watch a raw performance on gypsy flamenco accompanied by the hypnotic pulse of the guitar. There was no way you could stand and watch and not be moved into a reaction.
The dancers and musicians were sweating with exertion, and the passion they brought to this traditional Spanish performance was inspiring. We thought we couldn’t possible see a better flamenco performance that this street style—but we were wrong.
After Seville, we headed to Granada for the final leg of our 4 city adventure.
Are you ready to be seduced by the quirky charm of #Seville? This city oozes authentic Spanish ambiance and there's a memorable tapas bar around every corner. Click To TweetPin this Image
Having only been back from Seville a few months this was nice to read. The scissors in the door made me laugh!
It has to be one of my favorite cities this year. I would love to go back and stay there for an extended period.
Jay Artale recently posted..A reluctant visitor to Madrid
Oh Sevillia…loved it when we visited it back in April…Easter..yes crowds. Love the quirky man you got a fab shot of him. Watching a gyspy flamenco would be lovely. We did go to a show when in Seville. Thank you for showing me a bit more of the beautiful place it is.
I’ve heard that Easter is one of the best times to visit because of the events going on at that time of the year – they take that religious holiday seriously. I’d actually love to visit during that time of the year, but we just missed it. But a good excuse to go there again.
Roving Jay recently posted..Quirky places to eat Vegetarian Tapas and Pintxo in Barcelona
So glad that you explored the scissors in the door, I would have died of curiosity if you hadn’t! Thank you for the great ideas and inspiring photos on how to explore Seville.
Exploring the city streets can be just as interesting as wandering around a museum or historical site. I love street art, markets, and just losing myself in the side-streets of major cities. I just love that you never know what you’re going to see, and it’s those memories that stick with you and can endear you to a place.
Roving Jay recently posted..London on a Budget is still possible
I started my year and a half trip around the world from Seville and I fell in love with that city.
Had the chance to try Cafè Hercules breakfast, I was living close by, and I enjoyed it so much. Thanks for sharing your experience!
That’s a great neighbourhood, and what a great way to start your RTW adventure from. Yes Seville is an enticing city, and I feel we’ve still only scratched the surface.
Roving Jay recently posted..Quirky places to eat Vegetarian Tapas and Pintxo in Barcelona
Fun post. Brought back great memories of Seville. Would have loved to see flamenco in the streets.
It was everywhere Sue – and each time we stumbled upon it we had to stop and watch. It’s mesmerizing, and not something you can just walk past.
Jay Artale recently posted..Roundup of the best Travel Writing Articles
Seville – quite possibly my favourite Spanish city. Love the flamenco, the tapas. Have even considered moving here for a while! I have a photo of those random scissors too, maybe they are not as random as we both thought lol.
Yes it’s my favorite Spanish city too Sarah. I can’t wait to go back and explore some more of it, and discover more tasty tapas bars.
Roving Jay recently posted..A reluctant visitor to Madrid
Seville is my favorite place in Spain as it perfect city with full of culture, architecture and foodie’s place. I too loved the Seville cathedral area and riding on horse carriages is totally fun here. Staying in authentic Spanish hotel in old town is also worth.
The Cathedral is very impressive from the outside, but I think we’d OD’d on sight seeing in Barcelona, so we were just as happy to just wander the streets and experience the culture.
Roving Jay recently posted..Glamping in Turkey to visit Tlos
Thanks so much for this – we are visiting Spain, including Seville, in late April, and you gave us some great tips! What time of year were you there? Sounds like it was pretty hot?
Cheers,
Susan
Hi Susan. Our trip was end of April / beginning of May. It was lovely weather. I didn’t think it would be as hot as it was. You should check the events going on in Seville for Easter. They take that holiday seriously. Have fun.
Jay Anne Artale recently posted..Develop your Travel Writing Style: Tone and Author Avatars
Love Seville and looks like we have some favourite tapas bars in common. Just discovered there are cheap direct flights from our local airport to Seville – woohoo! I just love that gipsy flamenco!!
I’d be happy taking a quick weekend break to Seville any time of the year – it really stole our hearts.
Seville has just recently entered my radar, it sure seems like the kind of place I would enjoy visiting!
Yes absolutely get it on your list Ann — it’s a fab location.
I can’t imagine a better place to sit, eat tapas and watch the world go by. Seville looks like a fantastic destination to spend a few days!
As soon as we got there Nicky, we were planning a return trip. It endears you to it as soon as you arrive.
Spain and Seville are on my list for so long. I loved learning about the city and now it makes me want to go there even more.
Hope it’s inspired you to visit. You won’t be disappointed.
Hello Roving and sorry for my English because I am from Sevilla y olé!
Thank you very much for your article. I found it very funny, especially when you said talked about being seduced by sunny Seville’s quirky Charm. And after your rain-drenched days in Madrid, it was a relief to receive a warm and sunny welcome in Seville.
And about not something you expect to see in the middle of the day in a the city centre, but representative of Seville’s quirky charm.
Are you ready to be seduced by the quirky charm of #Seville? This city oozes authentic Spanish ambiance and there’s a memorable tapas bar around every corner.
Thank you very much again for this funny moment and best regards!
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