Colonial Battambang

Battambang is a city on the Sangkae River in northwestern Cambodia. Although this city is the country’s second-largest, few tourists make it here. It’s often overlooked as people rush from the temple-ladened Siem Reap to the bustling metropolis that is Phnom Penh.

It’s known for it’s shophouses from the colonial period, with accommodation and living quarter upstairs, and a business run at the street level. Chinese immigrants introduced these shophouse in the early 20th century. The façades show a variety of styles and ornamentation depending on the historical era they were built.

Despite being the second city, the heart of Battambang is small and compact. You will spend a lot of your time wandering up at down Street 1, 2 and 3, and the streets in-between (the aptly name Streets 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5).

On Street 2.5, the east side contains shophouses from the colonial period (early 20th century), and the prevalent design elements are rectangular columns, pitched roofs, and brick walls. Whereas the shophouses on the west side of the street were designed in 1960s and 70s, and have round columns, flat roofs and reinforced concrete walls.

Next to the Chinese Temple on Street 1 are more shop houses which back onto Street 1.5. They feature louvered shuttered windows, folding wooden shop doors, a pitched roof, columns, and arched windows. The balconies have elaborate cast-iron designs influenced by the French.

Pomme Hostel

One of the shophouses we spent most of our time in was the Pomme hostel, bar, and restaurant. We were staying at a budget hotel around the corner, but had a couple of evenings in the Pomme, and one very humid afternoon when it was just too hot to wander around.

This new arrival on the Battambang scene hadn’t long been open, and during our visit, only the downstairs area was open to visitors, as the hostel accommodation upstairs was still being renovated.

Pomme Hostel Accommodation

We requested and got the grand tour, and this is one hostel I wouldn’t mind staying in. Each room is self-contained, offering the weary traveler a little bit of privacy and a budget-friendly price, and has electrical sockets, a fan, a small shelf, and room under the bed to store your bags.

Pomme Hostel Restaurant and Bar

These workhouse buildings are ideal for a restaurant and bar, as there’s no front wall shutting you off from the street – this makes them ideal people watching venues.

During our trip, we visited our fair share of hostels in order to meet fellow traveller with the same travel mind-set as ourselves. We’d plot ourselves down in the bar or common areas and drink in the ambiance and $1 beers, and see who’d talk to the oldest backpacker in town! The beauty of hostels is there’s always plenty of chatty-Cathys!

Pomme Hostel Board Games

As well as mixing with the adventurous travelers who, like us, decided Battambang was worth a visit. We discovered a whole plethora of board games. Ollie, our Pomme host brought a selection of games from Thailand with him, and was happy to sit with each of the guests to talk them through the rules.

Our personal favorite (so much so we bought our own version) was Quarto. It’s nought and crosses on steroids, and the goal is to get four similar shapes in a row. (Round, Square, Short, Tall, Holes, Flat, White and Brown).

With eight different combinations to keep an eye on (and $1 beers to cloud our judgement) it’s deceptively complex and simple, all rolled into one. The beauty of the game is you choose the puzzle piece your opponent places, so in effect, you’re responsible for your own demise. It’s fun, and addictive.

[bctt tweet=”If you’re in #Battambang #Cambodia, make time to visit the Pomme Hostel. Even if it’s just to spend time in the bar! Fun Place. Love it.” username=”rovingjay”]

Your Hosts at the Pomme

This isn’t Ollie’s first rodeo, he already has a successful island hostel in Thailand, and has brought the same sense of style and professionalism to it’s Cambodian sister.

If you find yourself in Battambang, take a detour down 2.5 street and pop into this hostel to say hi, even if it’s just for one quick game of Quarto and a cheap beer.

This area of Battambang is seeing a resurgence of new businesses, and will become THE destination for backpackers looking for a Siem Reap Bar Street alternative.

• Address: Pomme, 61/63, Street 2.5, Battambang, Cambodia
• Facebook:  @Pommebattambang

[cambodia]