Feature Image: Port area of Symi referred to as Yialos
Getting to Symi
It’s nearly a 2 hour ferry boat ride from Bodrum to the Greek Island of Symi, and once you arrive it’s an quirky immigration process. You disembark, and are immediately on the quayside amid people strolling around the harbour. You’re directed to a little hut about 100 meters away, and you have to weave and navigate through the ongoing foot traffic and locals on scooters to reach it.
You check in with another immigration officer and your name is checked off a list to show that you’ve arrived. Before you leave you have to pay another visit to the hut to confirm that you’re going to get back on the ferry and your name is crossed off the list.
Symi is the most picturesque Greek Island I’ve visited to date, with a horse-shoe shaped harbor with tavernas, cafés, and shops on one side of a narrow road, and a narrow path separates the road from the mooring points for the boats.
Nos Beach
300 meters from Symi Town is Nos beach, which is a narrow stip of sand with sunbeds and umbrellas and a small taverna. It’s one of only two beaches that are within walking distance so it busy with day trippers and sun worshippers that don’t want to venture too far from the island’s main port town.
It’s not my idea of an ideal day at the beach, but we had a peek just it case it was. Further around that side of the island is barren rocky landscapes and vivid blue water.
The main port and town is also called Symi, but it consists of the lower town around the harbour, referred to as Yialos, and the upper town called Horio or Ano Symi. Typical in Greece, where places have multiple names.
In order to retain Symi’s neo-classical aesthetic, the architecture has protected status, to ensure that all restorations and new builds are in keeping with the island’s heritage. Many of Symi’s houses that were gutted and left for dead, have since been restored to their former glory by locals and foreigners who converted them into holiday homes for the wide-eyed tourists.
These restrictions are there to retain the architectural harmony of Symi, and that’s one of the main reasons tourists are enticed from the more chaotic and built-up islands like neighboring Rhodes.
Water Taxi to Beaches
Although there’s a local bus service that travels to a couple of the island’s beaches that have small resorts on them, the most convenient and cheapest way to reach the other beaches is by water taxi.
A couple of different companies offer a frequent hop-on hop-off taxi boat service. Each taxi goes to every beach on the list, and you can visit a beach for a short while, and then board the next taxi boat to travel to the next beach on the list, and continue to do this as many times as you want during the day. To make the most of this service you’d need to start your day earlier, but because we’d arrived by ferry at the middle of the day, we only really had enough time to visit one beach.
The timetables are very detailed, and explain the last boats you can get from each beach. Obviously the further away the beach, the earlier you have to leave, with the closer beaches having the later return times to the port. The water taxi tickets are 7 Euro for your return trip, but make sure you keep your ticket, and make sure you get on the right water taxi.
Nimborio (or Emborios) Beach
We knew we had to get back to the port in time for the ferry departure, and wanted to have enough time for lunch and a couple of swims, so we opted for the first beach on the water taxi a 10 minute ride away.
If you have time to spare and fancy some exercise, there’s a donkey path that leads from the harbour directly over the hill to Nimborio, which will take you about 30-40 minutes.
Nimborio is just 3km north west of Symi Town, and has a narrow strip of pebbled coastline and crystal clear water. Some of the other beaches are pretty secluded and don’t have any beds or tavernas on them. But Nimborio has sun beds and sun umbrellas (for a ~5 Euro charge) on raised concrete platforms around the bay. But as it was Sunday, most of these sun beds were already in use. So we headed directly to the only taverna on the beach.
As is usual for a restaurant in a tourist area tourist area, the menu and drinks prices at Metapontis are higher than average, and the service wasn’t as friendly and welcoming as I expected.
Symi is famous for tiny red shrimp that are pan-fried, and are so small and delicate that you can eat them whole (head and tail included). They’re a bit like eating the shrimp equivalent of a soft shell crab. My pile of shrimp were served with a wedge of lemon, and I also ordered a Greek salad.
My poor salad was burdened under the biggest, and least appetizing block of feta cheese I’ve ever been served. No finesse or thought went into the preparation of this salad, and so it wasn’t visually appealing, but the shrimp were succulent, sweet, and very addictive, like aquatic popcorn..
We figured we’d sit at the table after lunch and take it in turns to pop into the water to cool off, but the restaurant staff had other ideas, and ushered us away from our table. The restaurant was only about 25% full, so this seemed unnecessary, especially since we were still drinking wine.
Instead, they moved us over to their bar-area patio, where we had the bar tender at our beck and call to keep us supplied with ice for our drinks. It wasn’t the most ornate area, but at least is was a seat, and we weren’t charged for the use of the sun beds.
After a couple of swims, we caught the next available taxi boat back to the main port. I wouldn’t go back to this beach again—there has to be better one’s on the island. But for a day trip destination it fit the bill, especially since we didn’t have a lot of time to explore or travel further. But the restaurant should make more of an effort to create a memorable (for the right reasons) experience. Unfortunately, they’re the only establishment, and as you can only arrive and exit the beach via one of the water taxis, you’re a captive audience.
Back at the port, we wandered around the shops until it was time to check out of the immigration hut and board our ferry back to Bodrum.
As we slowly pulled out of this harbour, I took a backwards glance at Symi, already plotting my return with Red and vowing to stay longer on my next trip so that I could explore the town in more depth and visit more of the island’s beaches. I knew in my heart that the lack of appreciation for our tourist dollar at our lunch time restaurant, wasn’t indicative of the island’s true self. I wanted to give Symi a second chance, and restore my faith that the island wasn’t operating on it’s looks alone. I knew if we scratched below the surface, we’d stumble across the Greek hospitality and warmth we’d grown to appreciate and love.
The only challenge is that the Yesil Marmaris ferry only runs from Bodrum on a Sunday during the season, so if I planned to stay longer next time, it was going to take some juggling of travel plans to make sure we had an overnight stay. But that’s the type of travel challenge I love.
My day trip to the #Greekisland of #Symi included a water taxi to a neighboring beach, and a plate of the famous #symishrimp. #Greece Click To Tweet
Additional Resources
Here’s one of the books James has written about Symi, plus a practical Symi guide by author Clive Davis.
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I can’t believe it took me until 2019 to tread on Greek soil, especially since it’s only a 15 minute ferry ride from our nearest Turkish ferry port! Well I’m making up for lost time, and here’s my blog posts about exploring Greece:
- Popping my Greek Cherry with Kalymnos
- Day trip to Vathy on the Greek Island of Kalymnos
- Catching the Mastichari Ferry from Kos to Kalymnos
- Getting to know Kalymnos Beaches
- Discover the Tranquility of Telendos
- Visiting Symi for their Famous Red Shrimp
- Exploring Leros on Two Wheels
- Overnight Trip to Symi
- Afternoon in Rhodes
What an enchanting island and I am so glad to hear that no other building and alteration can be made to the homes on the island. It is great that abandoned houses have been brought back to life. As for those beaches well they look idyllic and I think the water taxi sounds a fantastic idea. Having never island-hopped around Greece myself this form of beach hopping sounds the next best thing especially if prawns and greek salad awaits your arrival!
Enchanting is a good adjective. It beguiles you as soon as you arrive, and you don’t want to leave. I went back for that second trip and stayed for a few days … and I fell deeply in love.
Roving Jay recently posted..Discover the Tranquility of Telendos
What a gorgeous looking island. Not even heard of this one but looks just my cup of tea. Love the look of the harbour and their shrimp speciality. It’s funny now when I saw the photo of the queue at the immigration hut, I think ooh too many people, move apart lol.
There’s was a huge crush at the immigration hut, lot’s of pushing and shoving to get to the front. I wonder how things will work in the new post-Covid world. I can’t see social distancing working for too much longer. There are just so many situations where it’s too difficult to keep your distance.
Roving Jay recently posted..Popping my Greek Cherry with Kalymnos
I was in Greece last summer and I wish I would have known about Symi sooner! It looks absolutely amazing, and the food looks incredible. Adding it to my list for my next trip!
There’s a few other islands nearby, so you have hit a few of them in one trip, and that’s what I love about visiting the Greek Islands, you can go to one destination, and experience the diversity of it’s neighbor by just hopping on one of the local or regional ferries.
This looks beautiful & made me want to head back to Greece again! It’s such a shame that the service in the restaurant soured the taste of your day trip although I love the sound of the shrimp.
We made the most of, and brushed it off, but we could have had a much nicer experience. I can never understand why people in a service industry don’t value good service. Maybe because it was Sunday, they wanted to focus on local Greeks instead of tourists, because Sunday is a big family day. And I could understand that if the restaurant was packed, but it wasn’t, so they could have made a little bit of an effort.
Jay Artale recently posted..Getting to know Kalymnos Beaches
What a beautiful island. I have always wanted to tour the Greek Isles. I have to say that is a serious block of FETA, never seen anything like it.
I imagined the chef in the kitchen just chopping off a huge block of it and just chucking it on my salad. No finesse. No culinary technique. Just Chop and Chuck. I’d have traded that huge chunk of cheese for a bit of good service!
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Looks like a charming Greek island! Love those water taxis and the oh-so-blue water. When I saw the long queue at the immigration hut, I thought that looks like a crowded place. But the shrimps and cheese look yum!:-)
The immigration huts are always crowded. A whole ferry boat of people crushing towards one poor immigration officer, because they all want to start their day trip as soon as possible … and if you don’t get off the ferry quickly, it can take you an hour to start your day.
Jay Artale recently posted..Discover the Tranquility of Telendos
Wow, Symi looks so picturesque! I’ve never been to Greece, but anytime I see photos I want to go. And I would love to eat those little red shrimp since I’m already a seafood lover.
Now that I’ve been to a few Greek Island, Symi has won the competition of the most picturesque … I love that they’ve retained the historic charm of the island, and were smart enough not to ruin the look and feel of the harbour area with high rise or modern looking buildings.
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Oh yes, the Symi Shrimp is just one other reason to visit Greece, right? 😀
I had a lobster once, on a beach in Samos, thats one of the best seafoods I have ever had in my life. Greece is the best when it comes to the seafood, in my opinion.
The shrimp were good … I just had to try them, but give me a plate of grilled octopus .. now we’re talking! Plus, I never get tired of a simple Greek Salad.
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Symi looks like a great place to explore. The beach appears to be quite small and not very relaxing, but the views and the colour of the water are to die for. I would just want to spend the entire day checking out the architecture, restaurants and sites of Symi.
Yes the beaches are quite small on Symi, but the water is gorgeous, clear, and vivid.
Jay Artale recently posted..#AuthorToolbox How to Create a Watery 1st Draft to Turn into Wine
I haven’t heard of Symi Island. The water is really pretty, I would definitely use the water taxi service to explore all the beaches. Those shrimp look amazing (and the feta cheese made me laugh).
Sherianne recently posted..25 Things to do at Tangalooma Resort Australia, Day Trip Itinerary
That feta cheese almost made me choke! It was seriously so large, I had to leave half of it, which is such a waste.
Jay Artale recently posted..Author Interview with Travel Memoirist Catherine Berry
I’ve never actually heard of Symi before, but it looks beautiful! Love seeing these charming Greek islands and the different things they each offer. Greece is so high on my bucketlist!
Yes keep it on the list and bubbling to the top. It’s definitely worth it.
Symi definitely looks picturesque from the picture of the harbour view of Symi. I like that they are retaining and keeping Symi’s Neo classical aesthetics and they have strict rules to restorations and new build. I think that what makes a place attractive. Now to Symi’s red shrimps, they looks tantalising.
Yes they’re smart to keep things small scale and a nod to the past. As soon as that first modern building goes up, the whole look and feel of this little island would be ruined.
I loved reading your vivid description. I just took a tour through your words. Love the contrast of the blue ocean and the rocky barren land. Your trip reminded me of island hopping in Phuket, Thailand. I haven’t been to Greece yet and would love to visit someday. So glad to read about this Greek Island.
Chirasree recently posted..I can’t breathe!
Yes that vivid blue against the barren landscape creates a beautiful backdrop. From what I’ve seen of Greeks Islands, there’s lots like this, and maybe that’s what makes them so memorable.
Symi looks so pretty! I think I’d like to beach-hop all day on the water taxis. The red shrimp look delicious – “aquatic popcorn” as you said sounds yummy. I cracked up at that giant block of feta on your salad. That’s enough cheese for five salads! I’m surprised they sliced your onion, and didn’t just plop a whole one on your plate next to the cheese 😀
Carrie Ann | Should Be Cruising recently posted..Everything You Need to Know About Tender Ports on a Cruise
That would have been novel wouldn’t it … here are your ingredients madam, and a knife … knock yourself out!
Such a beautiful place and the food looks amazing! I couldn’t help but laugh at the feta cheese on the salad! At least the red shrimp were good.
I could quite easily eat my way around Greece. The freshness of the local ingredients and the availability and abundance of seafood.
Jay Artale recently posted..Author Interview Carol Duval Trying Lives
This looks like the perfect place to relax and the shrimp looks amazing, but I think I would give the feta a miss!
I nibbled at the edges, but left the rest, which is a shame, but there was no way it’d stay fresh in my bag in that heat! But I do hate food waste.
Roving Jay recently posted..Popping my Greek Cherry with Kalymnos
I love shrimp but I’m one of those people with the irrational distaste for eating the whole shrimp – I blame it (and many bad food habits) on being American. Nimborio beach is STUNNING, I love that you have to be taken to beaches on a water ferry – although a hike on the donkey trail sounds fun too and you’d really earn a dip in the waters after a 30 minute trek. I’m super surprised that many of the houses are colorful and not the traditional whitewashed with blue trim. It almost reminds me of Copenhagen where I live now 🙂
Our base is in Turkey … and we have the white wash and blue trim houses, and I’d assumed that the Greek houses would be the same, as they are in other parts of Greece, so it was so surprising to see these colorful houses. I think because the islands heritage is colonial, and these look and feel is imported.
Roving Jay recently posted..Exploring Leros on Two Wheels
Hi Jay
It looks like you enjoyed your trip from Bodrum to Symi!
You might like to know that the beach you feature in your blog is not ‘Nimborio’ but ‘Agia Marina’. Nimborio is another beach to the west of Symi harbour, whereas Agia Marina is to the east of the harbour around the headland.
The pictures you show are definitely of Agia Marina, so you might like to change your picture comments.
If any of your readers are interested in more info on Symi, my book ‘Symi: A Practical Guide’, may be of interest, available at https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1980408017
Kind regards
Clive Davies
Thanks for pointing this incorrect beach name … I appreciate you taking the time to make sure I have the correct info. And thanks for letting us know about your book.
It sounds so perfect. There is nobody in this world who don’t want to roam or enjoy. I am an absolute travel freak and love exploring different places. Though the situation is not in our favor for anyone at the moment. Hopefully soon.
Hopefully VERY soon.
I love that you shine the light on a lesser known island. Some of my Greece travels best memories are the lesser known islands of the mainstream tourist route. Stunning photo of Harbour view of Symi.
Symi is so picturesque .. I had in my mind the quintessential Greek landscape of white and blue houses, so this collection of architecture came as quite a surprise.
That was quite a journey to go through to get some shrimp, but I totally understand your dedication to the cause! Those little Greek islands are so special – can’t wait to be able to visit Greece again and taste their magnificent food!
We found that they also serve those shrimp on closer Greek islands, but they still refer to them as Symi Shrimp.
When we visited Rhodes, we went to a little local restaurant that our hotel suggested and had the Symi Shrimp and another dish that was made with Sea Urchin. They were both amazing, but my wife had an allergic reaction to something (we think the shrimp shells) and her face blew up and she could barely see. I spent the evening trying to find Benadryl at the pharmacies, but they were clueless. Had the hotel doctor give her a shot the next day. We loved the islands and will definitely try to get to Symi next time. Thanks for the experience.