Must-see, Must-do
Of all the places you can visit in Phnom Penh, you have to go to The Killing Fields and S-21 Security Prison. I know don’t seem likely candidates for a good day’s outing, but nothing gives you a better perspective of Cambodia’s recent history and turmoil, than experiencing both of these must-see locations.
We went to S-21 first, and our tuk-tuk driver waited for us to take us to The Killing Fields, which is further out of town. It’s full name is Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. Between 1975-78 around seventeen thousand men, women, and children were transported from the holding pens at S-21 to the Killing Fields to end their life.
In 1980, the remains of nearly nine thousand bodies were exhumed from mass graves found at the Killing Fields.
Many of the skulls from these remains are arranged by sex and age behind the glass panels of the Memorial Stupa in the centre of this outdoor museum.
Finding peace at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek
Despite the horror and misery this place is drenched in, it’s a peaceful place to visit, and an ideal location for the inward reflection you’ll lose yourself in. I usually don’t like audio tours, because the headphones cut you off from your travel companions, and make the museum tour a solitary process. But in the case of the Killing Fields, that’s exactly what you need to do to fully appreciate what happened here.
The audio tour features Him Huy, a guard and executioner at Choeung Ek, detailing some of the education techniques used during his time there, which includes beating children to death in order to save bullets.
This chilling soundtrack to your visit here, will leave you in no doubt about the atrocities.
After the heat, noise, and humidity of central Phnom Penh, the Killing Fields was a welcome respite. There is an aura of calm here, akin to the reverence of visiting a church or other religious site.
As well as wandering around this open air museum, you can watch a fifteen minute video. We didn’t watch this, because by the time we have finished walking around the Killing Fields and listening to the audio, we were emotionally drained and just wanted to leave. So if you do want to watch the video, do it first, before your tour.
The location of the Killing fields is out of town down rural lanes, basically out in the sticks. A round trip tuk-tuk to the Killing Fields should cost around $15. We had a stop off at S-21, and negotiated $20 for the two stops with the driver waiting for us at each location.
- Admission with Audio Tour $6
- Open 7:30am to 5:30pm
- http://www.killingfieldsmuseum.com
The Killing Fields has a dark past, but you need to understand Cambodia’s past in order to put your time in this country into perspective. This Killing Field is just one of many throughout Cambodia, and a vivid reminder of the Pol Pot regime.
Pol Pot left his mark on a generation of Cambodians, so it would be understandable to encounter a country full of miserable people, but wherever we went, we were met with smiles and warmth. I vividly remember the Seventies – those were my teen years, growing up in a small town in the UK. Looking back at that time now, I can’t even begin to imagine what Cambodians went through during this era.
Broshar’s Adventures Video of a visit to The Killing Fields
No trip to #PhnomPenh is complete without a trip out to #TheKillingFields. Find out the best way to tour this historical site Click To Tweet
Flashpacking through Cambodia
Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.
I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.
If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.
Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:
- Cambodia Visa and Arrival at Siem Reap Airport
- Cambodia: How to Avoid the Crowds at Angkor Wat
- Filling up your scooter in Cambodia
- The Best Tasting Street Food in Siem Reap
- Angkor Wat at Dawn: Is it worth it?
- Come face to face with Angkor Thom’s Bayon
- Good vs. Evil at Angkor Thom’s Impressive Southern Gate
- The Baphuon Temple and the Terrace of the Elephants at Angkor Thom
- Visiting Siem Reap’s War Museum
- Where to Stay in Siem Reap
- Visiting Siem Reap’s Markets
- Give your taste buds a disco at Siem Reap Night Market
- Responsible Tourism at Joe to Go in Siem Reap
- What to See and Do in Siem Reap
- Which Siem Reap Floating Village should you visit?
- Memorable Boat Trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
- Libations and Bric-a-Brac tempt our purse strings in Battambang
- Vegetable Amok at About the World Restaurant in Battambang
- Cooking Classes at Nary’s Kitchen Battambang
- Pomme Bar, Restaurant and Hostel, at the Core of the new Battambang
- An educational trip around Battambang’s Central Market
- Sightseeing and things to do in Battambang Cambodia
- Bayon VIP Bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh Cambodia
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark
- The challenge of wandering Phnom Penh’s streets
- A visit to Phnom Penh’s Central Market
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s Markets
- Phnom Penh Photo Diary
- Tops sights to see in Phnom Penh
- Touring S-21 Security Prison (Tuol Sleng Museum Phnom Penh)
- A reflective visit to The Killing Fields
- Taking a train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
- The majesty of Otres Beach sunsets
- Our Workaway Gig at Otres Beach Market Cambodia
- Working Away to make Cambodian Bagels
- Cambodia Pastry Wars: The Battle of the Quiche
- Our Cambodia workaway gig renovating a market stall
- Unwind on Cambodia’s Koh Ta Kiev Island
- Cambodian Beach Massage and Grilled Seafood
- Building Community during our Cambodian Workaway
- Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
- Christmas Eve in Kampot
- more coming
Such a beautiful and colourful place, even though its quite creepy. I must admit that this is not a place that has found it self up on my bucketlist 😛
It’s amazing how lighthearted and happy the Cambodians appear to be after this recent atrocity. Probably not on anyone’s bucket list, but if you’re visiting the capital, I think it has to be part of your itinerary.
Roving Jay recently posted..Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
I visited here in 2002. After visiting S21 museum in the morning and then here, I was an emotional wreck by the end of the day. But I think it’s important that everyone visiting Phnom Penh should visit.
Yes we did S21 first .. agree it’s harrowing, but I think it’s a must-see.
Roving Jay recently posted..Mandala Wall Mural to quiet the mind
This is hard to look at/read but its important to never forget these horrendous events of history, it’s the only way we can learn to never let it happen again.
Such a chilling story behind the Killing Fields. I am not sure that I could stomach a visit without tears. Very moving and respectful article about such a somber site.
It was also very peaceful and gave you a chance for reflection.
Roving Jay recently posted..Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
I went to Phnom Penh but didn’t get a chance to go to The Killing Fields and had wanted to. Thank you for sharing this. Very moving.
Such an interesting place!
I’m not familiar with the Killing Fields, but it looks really interesting.
Moving account of what is an incredibly humbling place to visit
This brings back such sad memories. I visited the killing fields a few years back although I didn’t take any photos out of respect and that I didn’t want them as a memory that I would stumble back across one day. It’s trully a sad place where so many innocent people lost their lives.
I think it’s important to share the message and atrocities to as many people as possible. And pictures are the best way to raise awareness.
This is an article that is difficult to read and brings back many sad stories but it is important that it is never forgotten.
The friendship bracelets are a lovely, colourful tradition!
The colorful art is such a contrast to the skulls. What a chilling and fascinating place to visit!
Sharon recently posted..Visiting the D-Day Beaches — Utah Beach
I didn’t get to the killing fields when I was in Cambodia but one day when I return I will definitely pay a visit. It is hard to believe that these atrocities were happening only 50 years ago. A great blog to remember what the Cambodian people went through.
I agree that a visit here is a must do for anyone who visits Cambodia. Seeing your photos & reading your words brought the emotion of the day spent here flooding back. It is a draining but necessary experience to understand the brutality we humans have the capability of & immense strength of the nation to come back from these dark times & like you say, smile. Seeing the Killing Tree again made me feel the wave of sickness which came over me the first time. Thank you for this post & for encouraging everyone to visit. It is such an important place on any Cambodian itinerary.
Sue recently posted..Nashville, Memphis & New Orleans – A Music Roadtrip with a Twist
Yes it’s a place that can trigger such an emotional reaction. It’s heart wrenching but enlightening as well.
I remember watching the movie of The Killing Fields and being incredibly moved by it. I cannot imagine how emotional actually visiting the fields would be, but I know it is one place that I will visit when I go to Cambodia.