Feature Image: Taverna in Mastichari
The Plan
We wanted a three nights on the Greek Island of Kalymnos, but this time of year there’s only one boat a week from our local Turkish port of Turgutreis. It’s a day boat that runs each Saturday.
So I came up with a the following plan:
- Wednesday: Ferry from Turgutreis (Turkey) to Kos Town
- Bus from Kos Town to Mastichari Port
- Ferry from Mastichari Port to Kalymnos
- Spend three nights in Kalymnos
- Saturday: Ferry from Kalymnos to Turgutreis (Turkey)
I was able to find out the bus times ahead of time, but we weren’t sure where to catch the bus from, or how often the ferries left Mastichari. But I convinced Red that it would be an adventure. And we set off early in the morning to catch a dolmus to Turgutreis.
It’s about 8km on the dolmus from our home to Turgutries, and then a 1.5k/20 minute walk to reach the port. The only good thing about this walk is that we pass our favourite bakery enroute, and we have enough time to sit for a glass of Turkish tea and cram down a freshly baked potato and cheese börek.
Even at this time in the morning is incredibly hot and sticky. I was so excited to be taking Red to Kalymnos for the first time. I’d been once before, on a day trip, and I couldn’t wait to go back to spend longer, and introduce him to the laid back island of Kalymnos.
Bus from Kos Town to Mastichari
We’d seen lots of different bus stops on a previous trip to Kos, so I figured “how difficult can it be to find the right stop to get to the ferry port that’d get us to Kalymnos?” Famous last words.
The heat radiated off the paths and roads of Kos Town, and we were already sweating by the time we walked to the fishing boat harbour to the first post stop. There was a small unattended bus kiosk by the shelter, but it looked like this stop was only for a local bus doing a loop around Kos Town.
We continued to walk around the harbour and through the city gate, along the sea front to a small bus station I’d seen previously. The lady in the kiosk was really unhelpful and couldn’t tell us where to catch the bus we needed. We rushed around each of the bus shelters to see if we could find a bus to Mastichari, but again, it looked like this bus station only serviced the immediate local area.
We’d passed a tourist information center just outside the castle gates, so rushed back to see if they could point us in the right direction. It was a race against time as we had to catch the 10:30am bus in order to get to the Mastichari port in time for our ferry to Kalymnos.
They were very helpful, and luckily we weren’t too far away from the right intercity bus station that connect Kos to the other towns and villages throughout the island. It’s known at the KTEL bus station and there’s a small office nearby that has the bus timetables posts.
It’s a 1km walk from the day ferry port to the KTEL bus station. But I think we ended up walking at least double that distance because we went the long way round.
Here’s the timetable for the Kos Town to Mastichari bus. The first column is the Monday-Saturday frequency, and on Sunday there’s only 3 buses:
As well as servicing Mastichari, you can get buses from this station to Zia, Tigaki, Marmari, Pili, Antimachia, Kardanerna, and Paradise-Kefalos. For all buses you buy tickets on the bus.
For more updated timetables for the inter-city bus visit: www.ktel-kos.gr
It was a pretty plush vehicle, more like a coach than a bus, and we ecstatic that we caught the 10:30am bus, or else we would two and a half hours to wait until the next one.
Mastichari Port
It took about half-an-hour to get to Mastichari port, and just as we got off the bus we saw the 11am ferry to Kalymnos pull away from port. You’d think they’d synch the ferry times with the bus times from Kos Town. It’s not like there’s many buses or ferries!
The next ferry was at 1pm, so only two hours to wait. Except if it’s a Wednesday, when the next ferry was at 2pm. What day was it? Yep, Wednesday.
If we’d know more about the timetables we would have stayed to explore Kos Town and caught the 1pm bus, that would have got us to Mastichari at 1:30pm, in time for the 2pm ferry.
But now we were stuck in a 1 horse town for 3 hours, with bags for our stay on Kalymnos. After hunting around for information about the next ferry time, we sat on a wall to eat an ice cream and to decide what to do.
It was too hot to meander around town with our bags, and we weren’t in the mood to find a sun bed on the beach, so instead we found a local taverna to plot up in.
We took turns to explore the local area, and left the other one in the shade of the taverna, with a thirst-quenching glass of local beer for company.
There’s a couple of main side streets off this beach front road, and in between them are a hub of bed and breakfasts, cafes, souvenir shops, and travel agents. I resisted the urge to buy a pair of Greek Slippers.
As well as catching the direct ferry to Kalymnos, the local travel agents advertised a 3 island day trip to Pserimos, Plati, and Kalymnos. So if you’re staying near Mastichari, that means you don’t have to venture into Kos Town to go on a day boat trip.
There’s also a local day trip ferry that connects Mastichari to the island of Pserimos. It leaves at 10:30am and returns at 6pm.
Kos Town is tourist central, but this side of the island is a lot more chilled and relaxed. There’s plenty of tavernas near the port, and lots of budget accommodation to stay in. So I think Mastichari would be an excellent one or two night destination during your Greek Island adventure.
If we were to do this Kos to Kalymnos trip again, I wouldn’t mind having an overnight stay in this part of the island, so that I could catch the first ferry in the morning to Kalymnos.
Catching the Kalymnos Ferry
You can sit at any of the coastal facing restaurants or bars and see when the Kalymnos ferry is in port, so rather than waiting on the concrete heated quay, sit at one of the local tavernas and order a beer, log onto their Wi-Fi, and relax a while.
Then it’s a couple of minute stroll down the quayside to get to the ticket office, which is a little hut half way down the quay. It’s isn’t manned all the time. The person shows up about half an hour before the sailing time, and you buy your tickets from the kiosk before you board the ferry.
From Mastichari port to Kalymnos takes about 25 minutes and cost 7.50 Euro. It was only a small ferry, but comfortable enough.
It took us longer than planned, but at least we got to experience Mastichari for a few hours.
Kalymnos here we come!
Want to travel from Kos Town to Kalymnos? You have to catch the ferry from the Mastichari port. Find out about our bus and ferry journey. Click To TweetPin this image
I can’t believe it took me until 2019 to tread on Greek soil, especially since it’s only a 15 minute ferry ride from our nearest Turkish ferry port! Well I’m making up for lost time, and here’s my blog posts about exploring Greece:
- Popping my Greek Cherry with Kalymnos
- Day trip to Vathy on the Greek Island of Kalymnos
- Catching the Mastichari Ferry from Kos to Kalymnos
- Getting to know Kalymnos Beaches
- Discover the Tranquility of Telendos
- Visiting Symi for their Famous Red Shrimp
- Exploring Leros on Two Wheels
And coming soon:
- Overnight Trip to Symi
- Afternoon in Rhodes
Excited to explore Greece one day! My parents were there a few years ago but road tripped and didn’t get a chance to explore these islands
There’s so many islands off the coast of Greece, you could travel for years and not get a chance to see them all. I’m hoping to add a few more to my list this year.
Greece is high on my list of must visits, this year we may well just get there given we’re already in mainland Europe and have our own transport. I don’t know how you resisted those Pom Pom slippers! They look like a lot of fun to wear 😂
Can you imagine wearing those slippers in 100 degree heat? There must be lots of sweaty feet in the summer!
Greece is on my bucket list, and the Greek Islands are at the top of that list. I can’t wait to taste the food I’ve read about
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Don’t forget the people … the people are fabulous!
We were to be in Greece this summer, end of May and June but the trip had to be called off for the virus restrictions. Kalymnos was not in our plan though. Taking a note and would love to check it out when we visit next year as per our altered plan. The journey of yours from Turkey looks fabulous with the beaches and the ferry ride that you took. Ferry rides are always a favorite with me and my wife.
We relied a lot more on ferries last year, and I really enjoyed hopping on and off the ferries to get around this chain of islands.
Greece is definitely in my bucket list, i have read articles about Kos’s beautiful beaches. I love how detailed this travel guide is. Very helpful for future travelers.
I would love to visit Greece in the future!
Every Greek island has beautiful beaches, some sandy, but most tend to be small pebbles or rocky.
hi – so I did find the visual of the octopus drying on a wire interesting indeed, I never thought I would see something like this ever. I can totally understand the hunting for the correct bus terminus. I have been at the receiving end of this type of situation in small towns in India. You have been writing a lot on Greece posts and it has been interesting to read about your travel out there.
Being on lock down has given me a chance to catch up on my Greek Island posts. I’m glad I’m getting caught up and can share our Greek adventures.
Roving Jay recently posted..Catching the Mastichari Ferry from Kos to Kalymnos
Navigating public transport can be confusing sometimes so I am glad you shared your experience with taking the ferry. Those hanging octopus are so interesting though! I wonder how it is cooked, I’ve only had it grilled or in soups. Hope to visit Greece one day!
The best, and most popular way, in Greek and Turkey is to have them grilled and served hot. But in Turkey we also have them boiled and then soaked in oil and garlic and served as a cold meze. Sounds odd … but it’s melt in your mouth delicious.
I have never been to Kos or Kalymnos, but I have been to a few other islands in greece including Rhodes, Crete and Samos, Athens and Thessaloniki as well as the peninsula Sithonia on the mainland. I just love Greece, I have never been disapointed of the country 🙂
Rhodes is in the same chain of islands as Kos and Kalymnos – so you weren’t too far away. Kos is more of a tourist destination, but Kalymnos attracts more rock climbers, and is a lot more relaxed.
I could be on any of greek islands, as long as they have tzatsiki 😀
One thing I found odd what that hummus wasn’t on many menus at all. It’s on most menus in Greek restaurants in the UK and the US, but on the few occasions I asked for it, they just stared at me as if I was asking for a French dish. I guess hummus is more middle eastern, but I don’t understand why the other Greek restaurants always have it on their menus, but no in Greece.
When we visited Bodrum, we hopped on the ferry and explore Kos. Then, we felt we could explore further. How wrong! There was a bit of language barrier and we didn’t understand where we were sent to to get the bus for the ferry to Kalymnos. After about 2 hours of exploring Kos with three children getting impatient, we went back to Bodrum.
When next we visit Bodrum, we will have more confidence to explore Kos and track down the Mastichari Ferry to Kalymnos.
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Yes it can get really hot on these islands, and it’s no fun searching for a destination in the mid-day heat. I’m sure it’s even worse with kids in tow!
I love Greece & hearing your story & seeing your photos made me long to go back again. I do enjoy travel stories like this which reflect the reality of the experience. Sweltering hot, confused, lots of waiting around, lack of information or anyone who can help. That’s kind of why I love it! Especially when you are forced to slow down, have a cold beer & look at the octopuses drying in the sun. And it looks like a beautiful place you live too!
Travel certainly makes you adjust your attitude. Sometimes your only option is to sit and chill! There’s definitely worst ways to spend your time. I love being forced to slow down and go with the flow.
Sounds like quite an adventure! I would love to travel more like this and just have the time to make mistakes and let it all play out!
I wish things had gone a bit more to plan, so that we could’ve spent more time on Kalymnos. But the Greek Ferry gods were against us!
Seems like a short sweet trip that you might have enjoyed better if the sun weren’t as harsh. The beach does look promising but well, nothing like a cold drink in a beach shack. The Greek shopping looks quite colorful and fun – like the Pom Pom slippers. Good tips on how to get there.
Hot sunny days are great when you’re on the beach and can dip into the water. But when you’re traveling with bags, and racing around to find buses, and catch ferries, the hot weather isn’t as much fun.
Greece is high on my bucket list so it’s interesting to read about your experience. Great tips on how to get around by ferry. I think it’s necessary to plan ahead when you have a short time, and your timetable is very neat. The beach looks clean, and the octopus definitely catches my attention.
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Pity we couldn’t stick around for grilled octopus. Next time we’ll spend the night here and make the most of the tavernas.
What an adventure, Jay! Greece is so high up on my list and especially like the idea of exploring islands instead of cities! The timetable is helpful to know and I can plan ahead when visiting this part of Greece.
… and there’s so many islands to explore. We still haven’t visited all of the ones in our local area off the coast of Turkey, and there’s many more spread far and wide.
Wow, that was a great adventure. I was totally hooked reading about your trip. It was good that you got help from the local tourism office and got to the KTEL bus station. And I can understand how you felt about the waiting time of 3 hours. We had to wait more than that in some of our trips and that waiting time is actually more tiring. I was kind of startled to see the hanging octopuses for the first time. Well, they are surely interesting.
You’re right, hanging around and waiting can be even more tiring that walking around.
I love how you made the best of the situation by enjoying the bakery and getting ice cream! It’s that positive attitude that probably kept everyone from being very grumpy while waiting! It’s quite the adventure and story. I’m hoping to do Greece soon (though it’s been pushed back since our 2020 trips have also been pushed back) so this was very helpful!
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I can’t wait to start traveling again soon, and hopefully we’ll have a few more trips to Greek Islands ourselves this year.
That sounds like quite the adventure to get to Kalymnos Island. I think I would have stayed at the bar sipping that thirst quenching drink. Was Kalymnos one of those places that was worth all of the trouble to get there?
Oh yes! It’s laid back with a chilled vibe. I much prefer the relaxed atmosphere of Kalymnos than the tourist-ladened hub of Kos.
I’ve been dreaming about going back to Greece, so hearing about your adventure really hit the spot. I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who has issues with taking buses in unfamiliar places! Either I’m standing at the stop on the wrong side of the road, or they announce every stop to get off the bus and mysteriously skip mine! “Just go with the flow” has become my motto 🙂 Sounds like you made the most of it by taking turns exploring during the wait.
Sometimes it’s a wonder that I manage to get from A to B successfully, especially when the journey includes multiple different modes of transport. But I love the sense of adventure you get when you rely on public transport, and the sense of achievement when you navigate the routes and timetables successfully.
Sometimes those figure it out as you go adventures are the best ones! And you got to see a few things you hadn’t planned out. Sounds worth it to me!
There’s always a few bonus adventures that are unplanned, and these are quite often the most memorable.
The fishing boat harbor made me smile! What a lovely place! I am fascinated with the drying of the octopus, but apparently that is not an uncommon thing to see there. I have always wanted to go to Greece, but wanted to stay away from the heavy tourist areas, so this is a great suggestion of a cool place that is off the beaten path! Thanks for a great post with valuable information about a truly beautiful and fascinating place!
I’m not a fan of busy touristy places either, which is why island hopping across Greece is so appealing.
Wow, that’s a great price for the ferry. I love the idea of exploring Greece and island hopping just using buses and ferries. That’s a much better way to travel than flying.
We’ve been doing a lot more slow travel, and opting for trains, ride-shares, and buses rather than flying to the next destination. It’s such a preferable way to travel, and it opens you up to new adventures that you hadn’t planned for.
Happy to learn of a new Greek island I haven’t heard of. The virus cancelled my 1st trip to Greece that would’ve been last week, but I loved getting a taste from your photos (the octupus!) & advenure!
So many trips cancelled, but if you’re like me, it’s just make you more eager to travel once the restrictions are lifted.
Roving Jay recently posted..Catching the Mastichari Ferry from Kos to Kalymnos
Enjoyed reading about your adventure starting with a long walk in the sweltering heat, the laid back attitude of locals, anxiety to get to your destination and finally getting there!! I was getting impatient as I was reading your blog. I have never been to Greece, but someday I will. 🙂
It’s well worth the wait Jan. I can’t wait to explore more of it.
This is so detailed! I’m sure if anyone else is going to do this, they’ll have absolutely no trouble thanks to you
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The trouble with small destinations and islands is that it’s difficult to find information online, so hopefully this article will help other travelers looking to island hop between Kos and Kalymnos.
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Hey, Very nice and detailed article about traveling between these two Greek islands. When you travel a lot by plane, it’s easy to forget that you can get between places by ferry. I think I’d like to travel via the ocean more in the future. Or maybe more trains?
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We’ve been travelling a lot more via train and ferry, and I highly recommend this slower way to travel.
My friend spends all summer in Mastahari and is always asking me to join her. I think now I have read about the option of a ferry to another island being so easy I might join her and check it out for myself. I love the photos of the octopus drying – so Greek! I noticed you didn’t have face masks on? Did you feel safe out there?
This trip was from last year — pre-covid. We’ve only explored a little bit of Kos, but it’s easy to get around the island by bike or public transport.
Your idea of having an overnight stay in Mastichari for a smoother ferry connection the next morning sounds like a wise plan for future travelers. It’s always those unexpected moments that lead to discovering hidden gems, and Mastichari seems like one of those places. Thanks for sharing your travel tale.